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Champions
Bihun collective Champions tell stories of people who transcends the ordinary—a section dedicated to the champions of tradition, culture and ecology who create meaningful change in our food system. Here, we invite you to dive into the vibrant narratives that crisscross the diverse culinary landscape of our country. Discover the unsung heroes, the custodians of indigenous wisdom, and the storytellers of cultural heritage. Through their stories, we aim to showcase the resilience, passion, and commitment that shape a narrative challenging the status quo. Join us on this journey of celebration and exploration, where each tale unfolds as a rich tapestry woven with threads of tradition, sustainability, and a profound connection to the earth.
Harmony on the Plate
A Culinary Renaissance Weaving Tradition, Well-being, and Food Sovereignty in India
In the heart of India, where the Ganges whispers ancient tales, culinary traditions traverse through time, binding generations with flavors. Across the landscape of over 500 indigenous communities, each carrying a unique cultural identity, there’s a quiet culinary renaissance unfolding—a revival of traditional foods that goes beyond the plate, transcending into a deeper connection with roots and a quest for well-being.
Let’s embark on this journey in the eastern state of Jharkhand, where the soil echoes stories of cultivation but also faces the erosion of traditional food cultures. The shift toward cash crops casts shadows over indigenous food systems, disrupting a delicate equilibrium that sustained communities for generations. As the youth are lured away by the convenience of fast food or find themselves entangled in a dependence on the Public Distribution System (PDS), the consequences ripple through the health of the community, particularly evident in the alarming rates of childhood anemia.
Yet, amidst these challenges, a resilient call emerges—an assertion of food sovereignty. It is the right of communities to decide and produce their own food. This movement is more than a plea; it’s a commitment to sustainable agricultural practices that respect the earth’s natural balance.It’s a testament to the preservation of biodiversity and traditional seeds—a safeguarding of not just crops, but of cultural knowledge handed down through generations.
Regular discussions in Gramsabha (Village council) about crop progress and challenges.
Image Source-
https://keystone-foundation.org/the-story-of-reviving-traditional-foods-in-jharkhand/
Image Source-
https://keystone-foundation.org/the-story-of-reviving-traditional-foods-in-jharkhand/
The story resonates beyond Jharkhand’s borders, echoing in the kitchens of Kolkata. Here, at the Taj Bengal, Chef Mohammad Irshad, a culinary storyteller, paints a canvas with the richness of tribal dishes. The flavors are not merely a culinary delight; they’re a manifestation of indigenous knowledge systems. In these dishes, natural flavors intertwine with nutrient-rich fermentation techniques—a celebration of simplicity, yet a profound nod to the wisdom carried by tribes for centuries.
The echo reverberates on a different stage—social media platforms, where influencers and vloggers emerge as modern-day bards. Esther Lotha, hailing from the Lotha tribe in Nagaland, unfolds the culinary tales of the Northeast on her YouTube channel, ‘Nagaland Foodie.’ Isak Munda, who faced job loss during the pandemic, found solace in showcasing traditional food and rustic village life on ‘isak munda eating,’ gathering a global audience intrigued by the simplicity and authenticity of India’s tribal lifestyle and food.
As the narrative unfolds, millets emerge as unsung heroes—a symbol of resilience and sustainability. Slow Food, recognizing the significance of millets, declares 2023 the International Year of Millets. In Jharkhand, the Slow Food Ajam Emba Community, fueled by the Negroni Week Fund, launches a campaign to revive millet consumption. The aim is not just to bring back a forgotten grain but to build a holistic millet value chain, involving Indigenous farmers and communities, reinforcing the concept of food sovereignty.
Zooming back to the broader context, the story becomes a symphony—a culinary renaissance questioning dominant narratives of food. Communities and individuals, each a protagonist in this tale, are reclaiming their culinary heritage. They are challenging the fast-paced, processed norms that have disconnected us from the essence of food. Theirs is a celebration of indigenous wisdom, an exploration of local ingredients, and a bold stand for a healthier way of living.
In this culinary renaissance, a common theme emerges—a celebration of tradition and well-being. It’s about more than just a return to local ingredients; it’s a reconnection with the stories woven into every dish. Each curry, stew, or pitha is a chapter, narrating the resilience of communities, the wisdom of ancestors, and the richness of cultural heritage.
As we savor these narratives, we realize that the story isn’t just about food; it’s about the intricate relationship between humans and the earth. It’s a story of reclaiming autonomy over what we grow, what we eat, and how we nourish ourselves. Food sovereignty becomes not just a concept but a lived experience—a commitment to a balanced, sustainable way of life.
So, here’s to the unsung culinary heroes—the tribal dishes, the traditional pithas, the millets, and the stories shared on YouTube channels. Here’s to the communities and individuals who, through their culinary endeavors, are shaping a narrative that challenges the status quo, embracing the richness of tradition in a world that’s constantly evolving. It’s a story that invites us all to savor not just the flavors but the wisdom, resilience, and cultural heritage embedded in every bite.
About The Author
Harshita Baranwal
I’m Harshita Baranwal, a recently graduated student of Social Work with a specialization in Livelihood and Social Entrepreneurship. I have a background in English Literature and Economics. I was born and brought up in Azamgarh, Uttar Pradesh. My interests include reading, writing, playing musical instruments and traveling. I’m also an under-training classical singer.
Bihun-we tell a food tale is committed to creating meaningful impact through food. We are on a mission to tell stories of our regional food and ecological diversity, our native wisdom and champion local produce by highlighting women and communities, their cultural practices and indigenous knowledge.